Differently pigmented skin of various ethnic groups has different ceramide content.
About the authors
Olga (Olya) Vvedenskaya, Henri M Deda
Olga (Olya) Vvedenskaya
Sci. Communications Officer
Dr. Dr. Olya Vvedenskaya studied medicine, and further obtained her PhD in the field of molecular oncology. She loves to deliver scientific messages in a clear and accessible manner.
Henri M Deda
Head of Marketing
Henri Deda holds a degree in Molecular Bioengineering and Business Administration. He is motivated to provide inclusive, scientific answers.
• The stratum corneum condition is essential to skin hydration
• One of the main lipid classes of stratum corneum is ceramides
• Differently pigmented skin has different ceramide subclasses ratios
Olga (Olya) Vvedenskaya
Sci. Communications Officer
Dr. Dr. Olya Vvedenskaya studied medicine, and further obtained her PhD in the field of molecular oncology. She loves to deliver scientific messages in a clear and accessible manner.
Henri M Deda
Head of Marketing
Henri Deda holds a degree in Molecular Bioengineering and Business Administration. He is motivated to provide inclusive, scientific answers.
THEstratum corneum is the outmost skin layer. One of its primary functions is to serve as a barrier to maintain hydration and regulate trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). Its functionality is linked to its composition and structure. Among the most abundant components of the lipid matrix are ceramide lipids, fatty acids, and cholesterol.
Skin care research relies on understanding the composition and structure of different skin types and pigmentation types in terms of stratum corneum structure and physiology, to develop moisturizers which reliably maintain TEWL and skin hydration. Ceramides are of particular interest, as the molecular ceramide profile influences the functionality of the stratum corneum.
Moisturization has taken center stage in skin care research and product development for decades. New remedies for dry skin affecting skin microbiome have entered and left the shelves of drugstores. Still, dry facial skin remains a major concern for consumers. The challenge here is twofold.
The first problem revolves around research about the stratum corneum. Most cosmetics studies analyze body skin, which is easier to sample and important for further skin care products. However, the molecular composition of skin varies based on sampling site, age, sexes, pigmentation, and further parameters. Hence our general understanding of the stratum corneum, its corneocytes and lipid matrix cannot be applied to facial skin unless all these aspects are taken in consideration in the study design.
Secondly, moisturizer research has largely centred around single analytical parameters than global analyte composition. Instead of researching formulations which focus on one skin parameter, expanding analysis to cover many hundreds of parameters will help unveil the secrets of the facial skin and its biochemistry. Specifically, analysis of the stratum corneum lipid matrix is a promising research approach.
Schematic of the 12 ceramide subclasses: Chemical structures of the 12 ceramide subclasses of human stratum corneum. Each ceramide molecule is composed of a sphingoid base and a fatty acid. Mila Boncheva et al., International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2014), doi: 10.1111/ics.12162
The lipid matrix and its ceramide lipid composition are essential to maintain hydration and regulate TEWL. An imbalanced ceramide composition undermines the objective of the stratum corneum and can cause irritations from dry to oily skin. Skin lipidomics analysis of the stratum corneum ceramide composition has been able to provide distinct findings for improved moisturizer development depending on the skin type and pigmentation. Researchers of DSM analyzed Albino African, Black African, and Caucasian facial skin types in terms of their ceramide composition.
Total ceramide levels for different groups of participants. Different ceramide levels on cheek for Albino African, Black African, and Caucasian study participants. Data are mean ±SEM. * p < 0.05 Rawlings et al., Int J of Cosmet Sci (2022), doi.org/10.1111/ics.12765
The ceramide lipidomics analysis revealed that the overall content of ceramide lipids in the samples from Albino African study participants was elevated – a stark contrast to the increased TEWL, as ceramides are a main component of the water preserving lipid matrix between the corneocytes. In particular, EOdS, EOS, EOH, AH, NS, NH and AS ceramide subclasses were elevated in absolute concentrations compared to other skin types.
However, certain ceramide subclasses including non-hydroxy-phytosphingosine (NP), alpha-hydroxy-dihydrosphingosine (AdS), and alpha-hydroxy-phytosphingosine (AP) were reduced in the skin of Black African and Caucasian study participants (data not shown).
The remodeling of lipidome induced by dietary PUFA incorporation in vitro. The effect of arachidonic acid and docosahexaenoic acid dietary supplementation on lipid saturation. Both, arachidonic acid and docosahexaenoic acid, lead to an increase in saturated lipids and decrease di- and tri-unsaturated containing lipids. Large panel: mol% of fully saturated acyl chains in phospholipids; ** p < 0.01, *** p < 0.001. Small panel: student’s t test compared to untreated; *** p < 0.001.
Levental et al., Nat com (2020)11:1339, 10.1038/s41467-020-15203-1
Additionally, the overall elevated ceramide in Albino African skin type levels pointed to reduced corneocyte maturation. The ceramides seem to be not processed to be incorporated into the corneocyte lipid envelope, the layer of lipids between the corneocytes and the intercellular lipid matrix which consists of specific ceramides.
Overall, the study reveals changes in molecular ceramide balance and in lipid matrix in the stratum corneum of Albino African study participants, as well as an increase of immature corneocytes. The ceramide lipid profile aberration contributes to an increased TEWL, an impaired barrier function and diminished skin hydration. These findings demonstrate the relevance of lipid biochemistry and lipidomics in skin care research and product development.
Lipotype Skin Lipidomics technology supports cosmetics researchers and dermatologist to gather detailed skin lipidomics profiles. Such results help to develop new and personalized moisturizers, and reveal interactions of (existing) moisturizers with the skin to provide guidelines for better usage and efficacy.
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